Cafes in general seem to open early here, but Kathy's Cafe in Fulton opens at the ungodly hour of 4:30am. This only makes any kind of sense if it serves breakfast to other cafe owners on their way to open their own places.
Out back (let's pause to admire that use of local idiom) we chatted to an old guy:
'How come she ain't got no saddlebags?'
'Because he's a gentleman,' Ewa replied.
'Guess he ain't from New York State.'
Tomorrow we should reach Niagara, which from what we hear has a supply of flowing cool water which might, just might, be large enough to soothe our aching behinds. And I can bring y'all upto speed on the turtle race.

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